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The revival of traditional embroidery in modern fashion is more than a trend; it’s a movement that honors artistry, supports artisans, and bridges the gap between the past and the present
For designers, achieving the right balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern silhouettes is a creative challenge. In frame: The Story Brand (left) and Archana Jaju (right)
In the world of fashion, where trends are constantly evolving, there’s a growing appreciation for traditional craftsmanship, especially in embroidery techniques that add texture, depth, and personality to garments. Designers today are finding innovative ways to incorporate these age-old techniques into contemporary fashion, resulting in designs that resonate with both heritage and modernity. Celebrating Indian craftsmanship while appealing to a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.
Blending Heritage Techniques with Contemporary Design
Mayana Sobti Rajani, Founder & Creative Director, The Story Brand has thoughtfully incorporated a variety of traditional embroidery techniques such as gota work, zardozi, French knots, ari work, and cutdana. “These techniques were chosen for their intricate detailing, beauty, and heritage,” Rajani explains. Each method brings its unique character to the fabric, adding life to the garment while preserving the art’s legacy. Archana Jaju, Founder, Archana Jaju, echoes this sentiment, noting that her love for Indian art and handicrafts has been a central part of her journey, reflected in the hand embroideries across her collections.
For designers, achieving the right balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern silhouettes is a creative challenge. Rajani describes her approach as “carefully blending intricate handwork with clean, modern cuts,” which allows her designs to honor traditional techniques while appealing to contemporary fashion tastes. Jaju also aims for this balance by minimizing experimental silhouette design and focusing instead on high-quality craftsmanship to attract a broader market.
The Impact of Colour and Fabric
The choice of color and fabric plays a vital role in bringing these intricate designs to life. At The Story Brand, Rajani selects colors based on the time of the year and festive moods, particularly around celebrations like Diwali. “Rich, textured fabrics paired with elegant color palettes enhance the depth and intricacy of the handwork,” she says. This thoughtfulness ensures that the embroidery stands out, creating a lasting impression.
For Jaju, Indian handloom fabrics offer versatility, and her team often uses natural dyes. Though this limits them to specific palettes, Jaju believes it complements the embroidery beautifully, allowing the craftsmanship to shine without overpowering the garment.
Adapting Techniques for Modern Wear
Adapting traditional techniques for contemporary wear is essential for appealing to today’s fashion consumers. Rajani emphasizes the importance of reinterpreting classic motifs and patterns, refining them to fit a sleek, modern aesthetic while ensuring comfort and wearability. “We reinterpret classic motifs and patterns, refining them for a sleek, contemporary look,” she explains. This approach retains the authenticity of the designs while making them suitable for daily wear.
For Jaju, retaining the authenticity of these techniques while giving them a modern twist is no easy feat. The artisanal skills required for these embroideries are not only labor-intensive but are also becoming scarce as skilled artisans opt for more accessible jobs. “Skilled artisans have become difficult to retain,” she laments, noting that her kalamkari artisans, embroidery team, and weavers are moving towards different occupations.
Ensuring Fair Compensation and Sustainability
Beyond design, both Rajani and Jaju are deeply committed to supporting artisans through fair wages and sustainable practices. Rajani describes her approach to fair trade as integral, explaining, “We prioritize fair trade practices, providing artisans with fair wages that are determined by them.” By offering fair compensation and encouraging entrepreneurial spirit, Rajani believes her team can keep artisans motivated and engaged.
Similarly, Jaju has implemented measures to support her artisans’ livelihoods by ensuring timely payments, avoiding credit cycles that can strain their financial stability. “We try and ensure the payments are done in the periodic cycle,” she explains, which helps the weavers sustain their livelihoods.
Balancing Quality with Production Timelines
High-quality, handmade textiles require significant time and skill, which can challenge modern production schedules. Rajani manages this by working closely with her team of skilled karigars, whose expertise provides practical solutions for preserving authenticity while innovating. “It is a team effort,” she acknowledges, highlighting the importance of planning ahead to accommodate the intricacy of the craft.
Jaju also faces the pressures of production timelines, particularly as it becomes harder to retain skilled artisans. Her commitment to quality remains steadfast, but she recognizes that balancing this with timely production is increasingly challenging.
The Future of Traditional Embroidery in Modern Fashion
Looking ahead, Rajani sees a promising future for traditional embroidery, especially as more designers incorporate it into casual, everyday fashion. “This trend not only preserves these techniques but also makes them relevant to a wider audience,” she says, underscoring the importance of keeping these crafts alive in a way that resonates with today’s consumers.
The revival of traditional embroidery in modern fashion is more than a trend; it’s a movement that honors artistry, supports artisans, and bridges the gap between the past and the present. Traditional embroidery continues to evolve, designers are ensuring that these beautiful, intricate techniques are cherished by generations to come.
