‘Just let go,’ my instructor tells me. But it is not easy to relax.
There’s just so much to remember. Lean forward and I will go faster. Lean backwards I will fall.
I admit, I’m way out of my comfort zone. As a Londoner, my instinct is to be tense, to stand on the right and wait for everything and everyone, to pass by.
This is perhaps why it is taking me time to get used to relaxed vibe of Crans-Montana, high in the Swiss Alps.
It also explains, why it is the destination of choice for Europe’s high-flyers who want to move down a gear. Once you ‘let go’, the rest of the world may well not exist.
Crans-Montana village has been welcoming Brits for over a century
The resort began on a plateau in 1893 says James, when Hotel du Parc opened its doors
Crans-Montana is make up of two villages and linked together by a mountain path
Crans-Montana – which remains open until April 21 – is enjoying a ‘renaissance’ with changes to its demography and new investment. It is ‘made up’ of two villages – Crans from the west and Montana from the east. They are linked together by a mountainside path.
The resort has welcomed Brits for more than a century. It was first established when Hôtel du Parc, opened its doors as a clinic in 1893, run by Swiss Doctor Theodore Stephani who treated sufferers of tuberculosis.
There followed a golf course, constructed in 1906 and the first official ski race organised by British pioneer Sir Arnold Lunn five years later.
Thanks to its diverse array of leisure activities on offer, the resort steadily grew over the years attracting a notable clientele including Sir Roger Moore, whose home still stands, though currently obscured by construction work.
Perhaps in some sense, it is symbolic of the desire to breathe new life into the resort.
As it happens, building work is forbidden during peak ski seasons but around the municipality it is impossible to miss the signs of an organised desire for change and the hosting of world-class sporting and cultural events and gourmet restaurants.
James’ ski instructor Anne pauses to take in the view of the Swiss Alps, separated by the Rhône valley and the city of Sierre below
There’s even an art gallery, The Opale Foundation, which is solely dedicated to Indigenous Australian art, while billboards around the town boast Crans-Montana’s preparations for the World Championship for Alpine Skiing in 2027.
The mountainous retreat also enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year.
The resort is only too aware of the fact that its neighbouring resorts sitting at lower altitudes are battling against rising temperatures and lack of snow.
Sitting higher-up, Crans-Montana doesn’t have this problem yet, but what it does do, is provide a template for how its neighbours might have to adapt in the future.
Off the snow, there are a myriad of activities on offer and during my visit I try as many as possible.
One evening wee enjoy a magical stroll along the seasonal walking path, The Lantern Trail, which runs between Lake Moubra and Etang Long Lake.
The route takes us over the Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course which has been transformed into a spectacular, immersive display of illuminated artworks and colourfully-lit trees.
On another night, we watch a thrilling ice hockey game. The Ycoor ice skating rink is one of the largest in Switzerland.
Afterwards, at the indoor curling rink, we sit transfixed as we cheer on teams, armed with brooms, testing their ‘sweeping’ skills trying to push a 20kg granite rock into a ‘house’ or goal.
One of the many activities on offer is skating at the Ycoor rink, one of Switzerland’s largest
Unrivalled views down the slopes into Crans-Montana village can be enjoyed from the lift
The seasonal Lantern Trail runs between Lake Moubra and Etang Long Lake
Given its location and its affluent clientele, Crans-Montana has no shortage of top class restaurants. We dine at CASY – which resembles an upmarket, minimalist ski chalet with wooden walls and floors.
Their menu is billed as Modern European and includes dishes such as octopus and sweet potato, 24 CHF (£21/$26), white asparagus with cured ham and hollandaise, 21 CHF (£21/$26) and duck breast with white bean puree, goose liver and Sichuan sauce. 43 CHF (£37/$47).
There is something for everyone here. At the intersection of ‘beer Europe’ and ‘wine Europe’, Crans-Montana chose both, championing a rich Après-Ski tradition that caters to British sensibilities while also growing wine locally on the slopes from Sierre.
Frequent skiers say the municipality has changed in recent years, in part due to the adoption of a controversial law that enforces a £33,800 minimum annual wage for chalet and catering staff. With Brexit too, it has become harder to recruit foreign staff – but residents acknowledge the opportunity for locals to fill in the spaces.
Crans-Montana has no shortage of top class restaurants. James dines at Casy, above
Change is certainly underway with the much-anticipated, soon-to-be-completed acquisition of Crans-Montana by Vail Resort. This is their second foray in Europe after their recent investment in Andermatt-Sedrun in central Switzerland.
My ski Guide Anne* tells me, ‘They have a good reputation. I am very curious about the next winter season and I hope they will make the changes needed to the eldest installations… some are ancestral.’
She also invites Vail Resorts to add routes for beginners in the Arnouva area, which is home to a restaurant with stunning views, where we stop for fondue.
Events like the City Ski Challenge now in its 24th year, help the resort by bringing a yearly cohort of foreign businesspeople from across Europe to compete and unwind.
The arrival of five star retreats such as spectacular five-star Six Senses Crans-Montana, which opened in 2023, also suggest faith in the resort’s wider project.
Christian Gurtner, the general manager, tells me: ‘The recent acquisition by Vail Resorts has set the stage for significant growth, with anticipated additions including new luxury hotels and resorts, the introduction of thermal baths, and enhancements to ski lifts.
Events like the City Ski Challenge help the resort by bringing a cohort of businesspeople
The skatepark in Crans-Montana. The resort looks to diversify its offer to tourists, says James
‘These developments align with the evolving demands of tourism, catering to a discerning audience seeking elevated experiences.’
There is a balance to be made, he says, between ‘preserving the unique charm of Crans-Montana and integrating modern amenities to enhance the overall guest experience’.
In this way, Crans-Montana has kept to its roots as a haven for outsiders seeking respite from daily metropolitan life.
We chose to stay at a more traditional hotel, Hotel la Prairie, a charming, chalet-style property with wood-paneling galore and ideally located, just metres from the town centre.
James stayed at the traditional Hotel la Prairie is a charming, chalet-style property
A room for guests to relax at the Six Senses Crans-Montana hotel which opened in 2023
We chose to stay at a more traditional hotel, Hotel la Prairie, a charming, chalet-style property with wood-panelled-walls and ideally located, just metres from the town centre.
I find an empty miniature of Johnnie Walker in a wooden night table, a microcosm of the place itself, perhaps.
But the staff are friendly, the food is good and the bar is open late. Whether you are looking to experience isolated luxury or sink into a warm, homely space with fantastic views – Crans-Montana has it all.
European skiing may face a number of challenges in the coming years, but Crans-Montana is showing just how to deal with them.
(*not her real name)
